Glossary
Climbing and bouldering glossary
The key terms from gym and crag, explained in a few sentences. Every term has its own anchor, so you can link straight to it.
Ascents and flow
- Onsight
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Topping a boulder or route on the first try without knowing the solution beforehand: no videos, no tips, no watching others.
- Flash
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A top on the first try, but with prior knowledge. You know the solution from others or from a video, otherwise it would be an onsight.
How Cruxbook counts: A top with no attempt before it counts as a flash. An earlier attempt on the same project in another visit rules the flash out. Cruxbook works it out itself.
- Redpoint (Rotpunkt)
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A top without falling or aid after you tried the boulder or route before. The usual way to send a project.
- Top
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You control the last hold and the boulder is done. A calm hold for a second or two usually counts.
How Cruxbook counts: One tap on top finishes the boulder. Every try before it counts as an attempt.
- Attempt
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A go at a boulder that does not end in a top. Attempts show how much work sits behind a top.
How Cruxbook counts: Cruxbook counts attempts without the top. All tries on a boulder are attempts plus the top.
- Project
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A boulder or route you work over several sessions because it sits just above your current level.
How Cruxbook counts: A boulder you keep trying across visits stays as a project. Cruxbook shows attempts, visits and the way to the top.
- Beta
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The solution to a boulder: which hold, which foot, which order. Beta comes from friends, videos or your own trying.
- Send
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Slang for a successful ascent, usually a top or redpoint of a hard boulder.
- Crux
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The hardest part of a boulder or route. If you solve the crux, you usually get the rest.
- Sandbag
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A boulder or route that feels clearly harder than its grade says.
Gym and setting
- Circuit
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A group of boulders of one colour or grade in the gym that together make up one difficulty level.
How Cruxbook counts: Cruxbook sets up a gym with its colours. When the gym changes its circuit, Cruxbook asks for a new circuit before you start.
- Problem (boulder)
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A single climbing task with set holds and feet from start to top. In the US a boulder is called a problem.
- Zone
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A marked hold midway up a boulder that earns points in competitions even if you do not top.
- Grade pyramid
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A view of how many boulders you topped per grade. Many easy and few hard tops form the pyramid shape.
How Cruxbook counts: Cruxbook shows the pyramid per gym in your stats.
- Setter
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The person who sets boulders and routes in the gym, placing the holds and judging the difficulty.
Techniques
- Heel hook
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You place your heel on a hold or volume and pull with the leg. It takes load off the arms and helps on overhangs.
- Toe hook
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You hook the top of your foot behind a hold and hold on with it, mostly on overhangs, to keep your body on the wall.
- Dyno
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A dynamic jump to a far hold where, for a moment, all limbs are off the wall.
- Deadpoint
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A controlled move where you grab the next hold at the exact moment your swing reverses and your body is briefly weightless.
- Mantle
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You press yourself up over a hold or ledge like pushing up onto a wall until your feet stand on it.
- Drop knee
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You turn the knee inward and bring the hip sideways to the wall. It moves you closer to the rock and saves arm strength.
- Flagging
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You extend a free leg to the side or behind you to stay balanced and avoid swinging off the wall.
- Gaston
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You grab a hold from the side with the elbow pushed outward, as if you were pushing a door open.
- Undercling
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A hold you pull upward from below. You lean back and push with the feet against the wall.
- Smearing
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You place the foot flat on the wall without a clear foothold and use only the friction of the shoe.
- Compression
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You squeeze two sides of a feature together, such as hands on a volume or arms on an arete, and hold on through the pressure.
- Match
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You put both hands one after the other on the same hold to switch hands.
Holds
- Crimp
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A small edge where only the fingertips fit. It loads the fingers heavily.
- Sloper
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A rounded hold without an edge that you hold with an open hand and lots of friction.
- Jug
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A large, comfortable handle where you can hold on and rest.
- Pinch
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A hold you squeeze between thumb and fingers, like gripping a thick edge.
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A hole in the rock or a hold that fits one to three fingers.
Convert grades between V, Font, UIAA and French: open the grade converter.