Glossary

Climbing and bouldering glossary

The key terms from gym and crag, explained in a few sentences. Every term has its own anchor, so you can link straight to it.

Ascents and flow

Onsight

Topping a boulder or route on the first try without knowing the solution beforehand: no videos, no tips, no watching others.

Flash

A top on the first try, but with prior knowledge. You know the solution from others or from a video, otherwise it would be an onsight.

How Cruxbook counts: A top with no attempt before it counts as a flash. An earlier attempt on the same project in another visit rules the flash out. Cruxbook works it out itself.

Redpoint (Rotpunkt)

A top without falling or aid after you tried the boulder or route before. The usual way to send a project.

Top

You control the last hold and the boulder is done. A calm hold for a second or two usually counts.

How Cruxbook counts: One tap on top finishes the boulder. Every try before it counts as an attempt.

Attempt

A go at a boulder that does not end in a top. Attempts show how much work sits behind a top.

How Cruxbook counts: Cruxbook counts attempts without the top. All tries on a boulder are attempts plus the top.

Project

A boulder or route you work over several sessions because it sits just above your current level.

How Cruxbook counts: A boulder you keep trying across visits stays as a project. Cruxbook shows attempts, visits and the way to the top.

Beta

The solution to a boulder: which hold, which foot, which order. Beta comes from friends, videos or your own trying.

Send

Slang for a successful ascent, usually a top or redpoint of a hard boulder.

Crux

The hardest part of a boulder or route. If you solve the crux, you usually get the rest.

Sandbag

A boulder or route that feels clearly harder than its grade says.

Gym and setting

Circuit

A group of boulders of one colour or grade in the gym that together make up one difficulty level.

How Cruxbook counts: Cruxbook sets up a gym with its colours. When the gym changes its circuit, Cruxbook asks for a new circuit before you start.

Problem (boulder)

A single climbing task with set holds and feet from start to top. In the US a boulder is called a problem.

Zone

A marked hold midway up a boulder that earns points in competitions even if you do not top.

Grade pyramid

A view of how many boulders you topped per grade. Many easy and few hard tops form the pyramid shape.

How Cruxbook counts: Cruxbook shows the pyramid per gym in your stats.

Setter

The person who sets boulders and routes in the gym, placing the holds and judging the difficulty.

Techniques

Heel hook

You place your heel on a hold or volume and pull with the leg. It takes load off the arms and helps on overhangs.

Toe hook

You hook the top of your foot behind a hold and hold on with it, mostly on overhangs, to keep your body on the wall.

Dyno

A dynamic jump to a far hold where, for a moment, all limbs are off the wall.

Deadpoint

A controlled move where you grab the next hold at the exact moment your swing reverses and your body is briefly weightless.

Mantle

You press yourself up over a hold or ledge like pushing up onto a wall until your feet stand on it.

Drop knee

You turn the knee inward and bring the hip sideways to the wall. It moves you closer to the rock and saves arm strength.

Flagging

You extend a free leg to the side or behind you to stay balanced and avoid swinging off the wall.

Gaston

You grab a hold from the side with the elbow pushed outward, as if you were pushing a door open.

Undercling

A hold you pull upward from below. You lean back and push with the feet against the wall.

Smearing

You place the foot flat on the wall without a clear foothold and use only the friction of the shoe.

Compression

You squeeze two sides of a feature together, such as hands on a volume or arms on an arete, and hold on through the pressure.

Match

You put both hands one after the other on the same hold to switch hands.

Holds

Crimp

A small edge where only the fingertips fit. It loads the fingers heavily.

Sloper

A rounded hold without an edge that you hold with an open hand and lots of friction.

Jug

A large, comfortable handle where you can hold on and rest.

Pinch

A hold you squeeze between thumb and fingers, like gripping a thick edge.

Pocket

A hole in the rock or a hold that fits one to three fingers.

Convert grades between V, Font, UIAA and French: open the grade converter.

Start for free